Hilo to Hāmākua Coast & Waipiʻo Valley Drive Waterfalls & Scenic Valleys

Trip Snapshot

• Distance/Time: ~50 miles one-way to Waipiʻo Lookout (about 1.5 hours without stops, but plan a half-day with stops)
• Best Time: Morning departure (skies are often clearer and waterfalls flow beautifully; plus you’ll beat midday tour crowds at ʻAkaka Falls)
• Ideal for: Photographers, nature lovers, casual hikers, families anyone seeking classic Hawaiian scenery (waterfalls, coast, small towns)
• Route: Hilo → Pepeʻekeo Scenic Drive (Old Mamalahoa Hwy) → ʻAkaka Falls State Park → Laupāhoehoe Point → Honokaʻa town → Waipiʻo Valley Lookout
• Highlights: Walking to 442-foot ʻAkaka Falls in a rainforest, views of the Pacific along the cliffside Hāmākua Coast, delicious malasadas in Honokaʻa, and the panoramic Waipiʻo Valley overlook with its emerald cliffs and black sand beach.

Route Overview

Depart Hilo northbound on Highway 19 (Hawaiʻi Belt Road) as it hugs the lush Hāmākua Coastline. The city scenes quickly give way to wild greenery. After ~10 miles, detour onto the Pepeʻekeo Scenic Drive (Old Mamalahoa Highway) near Onomea Bay. This four-mile jungle road winds through tunnels of towering monkeypod trees and bamboo groves. You’ll pass tumbling streams and spot ocean glimpses far below it’s like a step back in time to Old Hawaiʻi. Roll down your windows and breathe in the sweet scent of ginger and rain the Hāmākua coast gets ample rainfall, which is why it’s so gorgeously green.

Back on Highway 19, continue a few minutes to ʻAkaka Falls State Park (about 11 miles north of Hilo). Follow the signs into Honomū Village a sugar-plantation-era town with false-front shops and proceed to the park parking lot. The short ʻAkaka Falls Loop Trail (0.4-mile paved loop) is a must-do. Under a canopy of giant bamboo and draping ferns, you’ll hear the roar of water before you see it. A brief walk leads you to an overlook facing ʻAkaka Falls, which plummets 442 feet in a sheer drop into a misty gorge. Feel the cool spray on your face as the waterfall crashes into the pool below on sunny mornings, you might catch a rainbow in the mist. Stand in awe at the railing; the falls’ beauty is absolutely “Instagram-worthy,” but also take a moment to simply listen to the thunderous cascade and the chirping forest birds. The trail continues and offers a peek at a second waterfall, Kahūnā Falls, through the foliage. Tip: Early morning is ideal at ʻAkaka you’ll avoid crowds and see the falls in soft lighting. The park opens at 8:30am, and by mid-morning bus tours start to arrive.

Leaving ʻAkaka Falls, get back on Hwy 19 and soak in one of Hawaiʻi’s most scenic drives. The Hāmākua Coast road curves along emerald cliffs, with the vast Pacific on your right. You’ll cross numerous gulches on bridges high above stream valleys. Look for the roadside sign for Laupāhoehoe Point (around mile marker 27) and turn makai (toward the ocean). A narrow road descends to this historic peninsula. At the end, you’ll find a small park by the sea. Here, waves pound against black lava rocks with dramatic force. It’s a picturesque spot to stretch your legs Laupāhoehoe was once a small village until a 1946 tsunami tragically struck (a memorial honors lives lost). Today it’s peacefully beautiful: wind-whipped coconut palms, crystal-clear tidal pools, and maybe a local fisherman casting a line. Snap photos of the jagged coastline and vivid blue water, but do not swim the currents are dangerous. Instead, enjoy the views and perhaps have a snack at the picnic pavilion while watching the surf spray skyward.

Continuing north, you’ll drive through acres of old sugarcane land now covered in lush pasture. The road straightens out as you approach Honokaʻa, a charming former plantation town. Slow down for the 25 mph speed limit and take in the rustic feel: wooden storefronts, cafes, and antique shops line the main drag (Māmane Street). This is a great pit stop. Consider grabbing lunch or treats here perhaps at the local favorite Tex Drive In on the outskirts of Honokaʻa, famed for its fresh malasadas (Portuguese donuts). A warm malasada filled with tropical fruit jam or custard and a cup of locally-grown coffee will hit the spot, trust me. (They’ve been serving these sweet delights since 1969!) If you have more time, stroll Honokaʻa’s small shops you might find local art, homemade snacks, or just enjoy the town’s nostalgic vibe. Honokaʻa feels like “real Hawaii,” far removed from resort areas.

From Honokaʻa, turn left onto Highway 240 and drive about 9.5 miles through ranchland and eucalyptus forest to reach the Waipiʻo Valley Lookout at road’s end. As you near the lookout, the road descends steeply you’ll know you’re close when the ocean reappears on the horizon. Park in the designated lot and walk to the overlook. Waipiʻo Valley unfolds below you in jaw-dropping fashion: a mile-wide valley carpeted in bright green taro fields and fed by a ribbon of river that meets the ocean at a black sand beach. The valley walls are almost straight up, cloaked in rainforests and waterfalls that cascade down 2,000-foot cliffs. You can often spot one of the island’s tallest waterfalls, Hiʻilawe Falls, dropping 1,300 feet in the distance. The viewpoint provides picnic tables and interpretive signs take some time to read about the rich Hawaiian history of Waipiʻo, once home to King Kamehameha as a child. Photos won’t do it justice the scale of the valley and cliffs, the play of sunlight and shadows, is simply awe-inspiring.

(A note on access: The Waipiʻo Valley Road that drops into the valley is extremely steep (25% grade) and has been closed to the general public for safety since 2022. Only local residents and tour companies can drive down now. Do not attempt to hike or drive into the valley on your own, as rangers strictly patrol the closure. Luckily, the overlook is more than enough to appreciate Waipiʻo’s majesty.)

After soaking up the view maybe you arrived in the clear morning, or perhaps in time for a tranquil afternoon scene you’ll likely feel the pull of Hilo again. Turn around and retrace your route (about 50 miles/1 hour back direct, or longer if you stop). If it’s late, you might catch a golden sunset over your shoulder as you drive south. By the time you roll back into Hilo, you’ll have experienced a day full of waterfall mist, ocean breezes, and the timeless beauty of Old Hawaiʻi.

Top Stops & Experiences (with Official Links)

• ʻAkaka Falls State Park: Take the loop trail to view ʻAkaka Falls, a spectacular 442-foot waterfall dropping into a verdant gorge. The walk is paved and family-friendly, winding past lush rainforest flora (bamboo, orchids, bird-of-paradise) and offering an overlook of a second waterfall, Kahūnā Falls. (Official site: Hawaii DLNR ʻAkaka Falls State Park)
• Pepeʻekeo Scenic Drive (Onomea Bay): A 4-mile detour off Hwy 19 at Pepeʻekeo. Experience a narrow, jungle-canopy road leading past Onomea Bay. Along the route is the Hawaiʻi Tropical Botanical Garden (if you have extra time, this oceanfront garden is stunning). Otherwise, enjoy roadside sights like old wooden bridges, lava rock walls, and a famous mossy footbridge over Onomea Stream a scene straight out of Jurassic Park.
• Laupāhoehoe Point Beach Park: A scenic peninsula known for dramatic surf and scenery. A memorial here commemorates the 1946 tsunami. It’s a peaceful stop to picnic or use the restrooms. Watch powerful waves crash against lava outcrops on clear days you get lovely views of the coastline from sea level. (Info: Hawaii-Guide Laupāhoehoe Point)
• Honokaʻa Town: A historic Hāmākua town with authentic charm. Stretch your legs along Māmane Street to see the vintage Honokaʻa People's Theatre marquee and plantation-era architecture. Don’t miss Tex Drive In just west of town for its “world famous malasadas” (a must-try local treat, served warm). Honokaʻa is great for picking up snacks, local coffee, or handcrafted souvenirs away from big-city bustle. (Tourism: GoHawaii Historic Honokaʻa)
• Waipiʻo Valley Lookout: The end goal of this drive a panoramic viewpoint overlooking “The Valley of the Kings.” The lookout provides sweeping views of Waipiʻo’s one-mile wide, six-mile deep valley, framed by sheer cliffs up to 2,000 ft high. See the patchwork of taro farms on the valley floor and the curving black sand beach where the valley meets the ocean. There are picnic tables and restrooms here; it’s an idyllic spot to reflect on the natural grandeur of the Big Island. (Official info: Hawaii County Waipiʻo Lookout)

Where to Eat & Stay

• Tex Drive InMalasada heaven in Honokaʻa. This casual roadside eatery is a perfect brunch or snack stop. Their malasadas (fluffy Portuguese doughnuts) are fried fresh throughout the day try the lilikoʻi (passionfruit) or haupia (coconut) filled ones for a true local flavor. They also serve burgers, sandwiches, and plate lunches if you need something hearty. Enjoy your treats on the patio with an ocean view in the distance. (Open 6am–6pm daily, so you can catch them on your morning drive north or on your way back.)
• Waipiʻo Wayside Bed & BreakfastCozy inn near Waipiʻo (Honokaʻa). If you want to extend your trip with an overnight, this charming 1932 plantation house B&B is just 10 minutes from Waipiʻo Lookout. It offers comfy rooms, an organic breakfast (with local fruit and macadamia muffins), and a tranquil country setting. The friendly hosts provide great local tips and true Hawaiian hospitality. Falling asleep to the sounds of distant waterfalls and waking up to birdsong and ocean breezes is a dream.
• Honokaʻa & Hilo Stays: There are also simple accommodations in Honokaʻa town, like the historic Hotel Honokaʻa Club (basic but quaint plantation-era hotel). Many travelers choose to head back and overnight in Hilo, which offers more hotels. In Hilo you’ll find options like Castle Hilo Hawaiian Hotel (modern, oceanfront with pool) or budget-friendly stays like Dolphin Bay Hotel. If you stay in Hilo, you can easily do this route as a day trip.

Practical Tips

• Start Early: Aim to leave Hilo in the morning (e.g. 7–8am) for the best experience. Morning light makes the Hāmākua Coast vibrant, and you’ll enjoy cooler temps for walking to waterfalls. ʻAkaka Falls is open 8:30am–5:00pm; arriving soon after opening means far fewer people on the trail. Morning is also usually less rainy on this coast, and you’ll reach Waipiʻo before afternoon clouds potentially roll in.
• Parking & Fees: ʻAkaka Falls State Park has a $5 per person entry for out-of-state visitors and $10 parking fee (credit card only). There’s an unattended machine pay and display the receipt on your dash. The parking lot is not huge, but turnover is fairly quick (most spend <1 hour). At Waipiʻo Valley Lookout, parking is free but can fill on busy weekends; overflow cars park along the road.
• Road Conditions: Highway 19 is a well-paved highway, but it’s curvy and crosses many gulches drive cautiously, especially if raining. The side road to Laupāhoehoe Point is steep and narrow; go slow and yield on one-lane sections. (It’s paved all the way down.) The final stretch on Highway 240 to Waipiʻo is also narrow be mindful of wild chickens or the occasional wild pig crossing! The steep road into Waipiʻo Valley is closed to public traffic obey all signage and barriers; do not hike down, as it’s both prohibited and dangerous due to rockfalls.
• Restrooms: You’ll find restrooms at ʻAkaka Falls State Park, Laupāhoehoe Point (basic but usable), Honokaʻa (try Tex Drive In or the public library if needed), and Waipiʻo Lookout (public facilities available). Always carry some tissue and hand sanitizer just in case, as supplies can run out at remote stops.
• Food & Fuel: There are no big towns between Hilo and Honokaʻa, but you can find small cafes or fruit stands in villages like Honomū and Laupāhoehoe. Honokaʻa is your main stop for restaurants and groceries on this route. Fuel up in Hilo or Honokaʻa Honokaʻa has one gas station. It’s ~50 miles each way, so a round trip is easily done on a half-tank, but if you plan extra exploring (like side roads or heading further to Waimea after Waipiʻo), better to have a fuller tank.
• Weather Preparedness: The Hāmākua Coast is one of the rainiest areas in Hawaiʻi that’s why it’s so lush! Bring an umbrella or lightweight rain jacket for sudden showers. Conversely, it can be quite sunny and warm, so also have a hat, sunscreen, and water. Mosquito repellent is wise if you’ll be in the shaded waterfall trails or if you stop at wooded parks (especially after rains).
• Photography: This drive is a photographer’s delight. For waterfalls, a polarizing filter helps cut glare and deepen the greens. At Waipiʻo Lookout, a wide-angle lens will capture more of the expansive valley. Morning or late afternoon yields the best contrast on Waipiʻo’s cliffs. Drones are not permitted at Waipiʻo Lookout (cultural sensitivity and rules), so stick to traditional cameras. And remember sometimes it’s good to put the camera down and just soak it in!
• Culture & Respect: You’re visiting areas rich in Hawaiian history. When at Waipiʻo Lookout, speak in hushed tones and show respect for Hawaiians, this valley is sacred. You may see locals coming to pay respects or tend taro. Do not fly drones, play loud music, or disturb the peace. If you picnic, pack out all trash (there are bins; use them). A saying in Hawaiʻi: “Take nothing but memories, leave nothing but footprints” it very much applies here.

Rentals & Logistics

This route is straightforward and accessible with any rental car no special vehicle needed. A compact car can handle the highways and scenic detours easily. If you have a choice, something with good windows and visibility enhances the experience (you’ll be gazing out at views often!). Be prepared for rain showers ensure your rental’s windshield wipers are functional and that you know how to turn on the headlights (you’ll go through some rainforests with dim light even midday).

Plan your timing: if you’re doing a round-trip in one day, you might cover ~100+ miles. Most rentals on the Big Island come with unlimited mileage, but double-check if you have any restrictions. GPS or maps: Cell signal is generally okay on this route, but there are dead spots near Laupāhoehoe and Waipiʻo. Download an offline map or carry a paper map of Big Island for backup navigation.

Reserve the perfect vehicle: For a leisurely scenic drive, comfort is key. Consider renting a car with a sunroof to fully enjoy the island air and views, or an SUV if you want a higher vantage point on the road. Booking ahead is recommended, especially in peak travel months, to ensure you get your preferred car type. Then, pack your day bag, queue up a Hawaiian music playlist, and hit the road your unforgettable Hāmākua adventure awaits!